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One
of the largest states of the India, Jammu and Kashmir
covers an area of 2,22,236 sq km. This includes 78,114
sq km under illegal occupation of Pakistan, 5180 sq km
handed over by Pakistan to China, and 37,555 sq km under
occupation of China. The state lies between 32o 17' to
36o 58' North latitude and 73o 26' to 80o 30' East longitude.
From North to South, it extends over 640 km and from East
to West, 480 km. It occupies the North-West niche of India,
bounded on the South by Himachal Pradesh and the Punjab,
on the South West and West by Pakistan, on the North by
Chinese Turkistan and a little of Russian Turkistan, and
on the East by Chinese Tibet - thus strategically bordering
the territories of three countries - Russia, China, and
Pakistan. The State ranks 6th in area and 17th in population
among the States and Union Territories of India. The State
consists of 14 districts, 59 tehsils, 119 blocks, 3 municipalities,
54 towns and notified area committee, 6477 inhabited villages
and 281 uninhabited villages. The State of Jammu and Kashmir
is the northern most state of India comprising three distinct
Climatic regions viz. Arctic cold desert areas of Ladakh,
temperate Kashmir valley and sub-tropical region of Jammu.
There is a sharp rise of altitude from 1000 feet to 28250
feet above the sea level within State's four degree of
latitude. A major portion of J&K State consists of
the western Himalayas, which besides many lofty mountain
ranges with varying heights of 3000 to 6000 metres and
above, also abound in rivers, lakes, passes, glaciers,
plateaus and plains. The number of streams, brooks, hill
torrents and rivers is also fairly large. The most important
rivers are the Indus, Chenab, Jehlum and Ravi.
It
has four geographical zones of
- Sub-mountain
and semi-mountain plain known as kandi or dry belt,
- The
Shivalak ranges,
- The
high mountain zone constituting the Kashmir Valley,
Pir Panchal range and its off-shoots including Doda,
Poonch and Rajouri districts and part of Rajouri and
Udhampur districts
- The
middle run of the Indus river comprising Leh and Kargil.
Climate
The climate varies from tropical in Jammu plains to semi-arctic
cold in Ladakh with Kashmir and Jammu mountainous tracts
having temperate climatic conditions. The annual rainfall
also varies from region to region with 92.6 mm in Leh,
650.5 mm in Srinagar and 1115.9 mm in Jammu. A large part
of the State forms part of the Himalayan mountains. The
State is geologically constituted of rocks varying from
the oldest period of the earth's history to the youngest
present day river and lake deposits.
Flora & Fauna
The State is rich in flora and fauna.
In Jammu, the flora ranges from the thorn bush
type of the arid plain to the temperate and alpine flora
of the higher altitudes. Of the broad leaf trees there
are maple, horse chest nuts, silver fir etc. At the higher
altitudes there are birch, rhododendron, Berbers and a
large number of herbal plants.
In the hilly regions of Doda, Udhampur, Poonch and Rajouri
there is a large and varied fauna including leopard, cheetah
and deer, wild sheep, bear, brown musk shrew, musk rat.
Varieties of snakes, bats, lizards and frogs are also
found in the region. The game birds in Jammu include chakor,
snow partridge, pheasants, peacock.
Kashmir abounds in rich flora. The Valley which
has been described as the 'Paradise' on Earth is full
of many hues of wood and game. The most magnificent of
the Kashmir trees is the Chinar found throughout the valley.
It grows to giant size and girth. The trees presents itself
in various enchanting colours through the cycle of the
seasons among which its autumnal look is breath-taking.
Mountain ranges in the Valley have dense deodar, pine
and fir. Walnut, willow, almond and cider also add to
the rich flora of Kashmir.
The dense forests of Kashmir are a delight to the sport-lovers
and adventures for whom there are Ibex, Snow Leopard,
Musk deer, wolf, Markhor, Red bear, Black bear and Leopard.
The winged game include ducks, goose, partridge, chakor,
pheasant, wagtails, herons, water pigeons, warblers, and
doves.In otherwise arid desert of Ladakh some 240 species
of local and migratory birds have been identified including
black-necked crane.
The Ladakh fauna includes yak, Himalayan Ibex, Tibetan
antelope, snow leopard, wild ass, red bear and gazelle.
Mountains
On the Panchal range, there are a few remarkable peaks
viz., the three peaks round the Konsar Nag (12, 800 ft.),
Tratakoti (15,524 ft), the highest on this range, and
Romesh thong also named as Sun-set peak by Dr. Arthur
Neve when he climbed it. A feature of this mountain range
is the luxuriant growth of wild flowers. Also an alpine
plant called Saussurea Sacra grows here in abundance.
From Pir Panchal range further North, the open grassy
highlands of Tosa Maidan (14,000 ft. high) catch the eye.
The Pastures of this vast highland are the regular haunts
of the cheerful, homely shepherds who bring up their flocks
for grazing. Further Northwest is the Kazi Nag range -
the home of the Markhor. It stands 12,125 feet high and
is snow-covered with slopes coated with dense forests.
The towering peak of Nanga Parbat (26, 620 ft. high) stands
as a sentinel guarding, as it were, the Valley on this
side. It is an imposing sight. Far away from here are
seen the Karakoram ranges also known as Mustagh, with
some of its peaks rising over 25,000 ft and among them
the World-famous K2 (over 28,000 ft.), the second highest
in the world, stands out boldly in its mountain glory.
To the east of the valley stands the noble, snow-clad
peak of Haramukh (16,903 ft.) overlooking it.
The famous Gangabal lake of Haramukh is regarded as sacred
by Kashmiri Hindus to the same extent as Haridwar is held
in India. Here also Saussurea Sacra grows in plenty. Another
remarkable peak in the east seen all over the city is
Mahadev (13,000 ft.). in Summer pilgrims climb this peak.
On the lower sides of this mountain, one comes across
a herb Macrotomia Benthami in wild profusion. This herb
is well known as Kah zaban or Gaw Zaban. It is frequently
prescribed by the local physicians to ailing persons.
On the South of the Valley, the peaks of Amar Nath and
Kolahoi springing from the same massif are found prominent.
Amar Nath stands 17, 321 feet high and Kolahoi 17,800
feet. Kolahoi is also known as Gwash Brari. At dawn the
radiant rays of the sun fall on this cone-like peak and
the lurid glare of the dazzling snows is a sight. Here
and there on this range, one is attracted by wild graceful
flowers, wild roses, poppies, anemones and hosts of other
unknown floral varieties. Shri Amar Nath is a famous ancient
shrine.
Lakes and Glaciers
For its fresh-water lakes and tarns, Kashmir is known
all the world over. Those lying in the valley against
the charming mountain background are : the Wular Lake,
the Dal Lake and the Manasbal lake. The Wular is the largest
fresh-water lake in India and according to some, perhaps
in Asia too. It is 121 miles long and 5 miles broad. It
lies to the north-cast of the valley with mountains overlooking
it. The Dal Lake lies on the suburbs of Srinagar in the
east. It is at the foot of the mountain range. The lake
is 4 miles long and 11 miles broad. Against the mountain
background which is reflected in its calm expanse and
enclosed by trees the lake looks superb. In summer, it
is a paradise for visitors who glide over its waters in
shikaras and houseboats. The Manasbal lake is the deepest
lake in the country. Its greenish-blue waters are wondrous
and beautiful.
Besides these lakes, which are fed by the melting snows
from the mountains, there are hosts of mountain tarns
form-glared by the glacial action and other phenomenal
activities of range nature. There are several glaciers
on Haramoukh. On the South side they only descend to about
13,500 ft., but alter the North 1,500 ft lower. They are
fed by the large snow fields on the summit, which are
of great thickness. The snow cliffs on the middle peak
show a vertical thickness of nearly 200 feet. In there
seen all the surrounding valleys. There are lakelets varying
in size from mere ponds to sheets of water a mile or so
in length and quarter a mile broad., most of these occur
at a height of 11,500 feet. There can be no doubt that
they are all due in some way to glacial action , and that
they are not of very remote age. Tydall points out that
a glacier 900 feet deep would produce a vertical pressure
of 486, 000 lbs. upon every square inch of its bed. But
the small glacier on the shoulders gone, of such mountains
as Haramoukh or Tutakuthi would not exceed 200 feet in
thickness, and would not be capable of excavating hard
rocks beneath. So the numerous tarns and lakes may be
own regarded as due chiefly to the formation of embankments
across line of drainage. Sometimes such embankments may
have been caused by the deposit of avalanche debris from
a slideslope or by the advance of a side glacier with
its lateral moraines. The lakes and lakelets found in
upper valleys around Haramukh mountain are Gangabal, Lool
Gool and Sarbal. They are at an elevation of nearly12,000
feet above sea level. The shimmering waters lend glory
to the Gangabal Lake, which stands at an elevation of
11,800 feet. To the South cast of the Pir Panchal range
lies the lake Konsar Nag (12,800 feet) surrounded by three
peaks. Its is fed by glaciers. It is said to be a source
of the Jhelum. In the spring and summer, the water is
some 40-ft higher than in winter. In the spring, its surface
is said to be covered with icebergs, which are driven
about by the wind. In the Liddar Valley, large glaciers
are observed. On the mountain range of this Valley, the
glaciers are found in Kolahoi. From here to the cast on
the way to Amar Nath cave lies the famous Shesh Nag at
an elevation of 14,000 feet. Glaciers are prominent in
this area.
Coming into the Valley proper, we find the frozen lake
of Alapathar or Apharwat, well over Khilanmarg. Flowers
of rainbow colors are found in wild profusion here. The
mountain tarn stands at the height of about 12,500 feet.
It is said to be 500 yards long and 150 yards wide. The
surroundings are austere and wild. It is popular haunt
of tourists.
The nearest tarn to the city is that of Harwan on the
slopes of Mahadev Mountain about a mile and a half further
away from the Moghul garden -Shalimar. The source of its
fresh water is Tarsar, a lake on the Amar Nath Mountain.
Harwan looks beautiful in its sylvan surroundings. This
tarn is the chief source of water supply to the city.
Besides the above enumerated lakes and lakelets, there
are scores of tarns and glaciers found in the mountain
ranges around the Gurais valley, Ladakh and Karakorams.
Adventurous Activities
Heli-Skiing & Rafting
The introduction of new adventure sport, called
Heli-skiing, in 1987-88, added a new dimension
to the winter tourism of the state. Heli-skiing consists
of being dropped by a helicopter on the summit of a high,
snow- covered peak and then skiing down the slopes. The
helicopter transports skiers from the base (Gulmarg) to
heights of over 4,500 m landing on a different peak every
day, whether it is Apharwat, Yusmarg or the Kolahai glacier.
In Kashmir there is already a well - organised central
Gulmarg Ski institute conducting ski courses and competitions
- became the second place in the world, after Canada,
to offer large scale heli- skiing. The construction of
a 7.5Km long gondola cable car ropeway from Gulmarg to
Apharwat, which began in April 1988, has also contributed
to Kashmir becoming a year-round destination.
Rafting
The Zanskar and the Indus rivers in the Ladakh region
offers rafting expeditions for the experienced rafters
as well as the novice. Zanskar river expeditions in summer
is the ultimate for a rafter which takes one through the
one of the most breathtaking gorges in Asia.
Indus river is one of the most scenic white water runs
anywhere in the Himalayas. The view is breathtaking which
takes one through the Canyons in the Ladakh and Zanskar
ranges with various monasteries or Gompas along the river
bank. The icy cold and clear river have rapids generally
of I and II grades and at some places, has grade III rapids.
How to reach
By Air
The state has three major civil airports at Srinagar,
Jammu, and Ladakh connected to Delhi and other places
in the country. Indian Airlines and its subsidiary Alliance
Air operate in the Delhi-Chandigarh-Ladakh and Delhi-Jammu-Srinagar
routes.
By train
Jammu Tawi is the main railhead of Jammu & Kashmir.
It is connected to most of the important towns and cities
of the country. Moreover, the longest rail route that
stretches from Jammu Tawi to Kanyakumari and touches almost
all the main cities and towns of the country originates
from here.
By Road
One can easily reach Jammu by the National Highway 1A
that goes from Punjab and runs through this city, connecting
it to the rest of the state, including the capital Srinagar.
The state transport corporation runs several buses to
most of the big towns and cities in north India.
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